Helen Bowman is a Lisbon local, mom of 2, freelance writer and lifestyle editor @heliotropism_. She gives us her guide to Portugal’s Atlantic Coast.
Portugal’s Atlantic Coast offers diverse experiences and environments within a couple of hours’ drive of the capital, Lisbon – from the giant waves of Nazaré to the serene, sun-kissed beaches of Melides.
This extensive coastline encompasses some of the loveliest landscapes anywhere in Europe, alongside a rich blend of history, culture, and outdoor adventures suitable for every member of the family. Whether it’s surfing in Ericeira, exploring the historical treasures of Sintra, or relaxing in the chic surroundings of Comporta, Portugal’s Atlantic Coast is an ideal destination for family vacations.
Read on to discover our pick of the region – and to find out where to stay on the Atlantic Coast in Portugal.
1. Nazaré
Nazaré is a seaside town renowned for its big waves, caused by an underwater canyon that’s 5000m deep in places. When weather conditions are right, these swells can grow to over 100 feet high, and are best enjoyed from the safety of the town’s lighthouse lookout point, the Farol da Nazaré.
The town itself has a promenade and seafood restaurants, for a quintessential beach experience – and for an equally authentic taste of Portuguese life, you can drive 30 minutes to the medieval towns of Obidos and Caldas da Rainha, with their cobbled streets and bustling produce markets.
Insider Tips:
- Visit Obidos, a picture-perfect village encircled by medieval walls and presided over by a 14th century castle.
- Caldas da Rainha, home to Portugal’s only daily fruit and vegetable market, has been running since the 15th century in the aptly named Praça da Fruta.
- E-bike tours are a popular activity among the nature-loving set who frequent Nazaré and its environs. Saddle up and let your guide show you the best of the area, safe in the knowledge that the bike’s motor will take over whenever the landscape gets a bit tough.
2. Peniche
Peniche is a haven for surfers and sunbathers alike, a rugged peninsula known for its beaches, surf breaks and panoramic views of the Atlantic. Neighbouring Baleal is part of the attraction: an island connected to the mainland by a narrow road, similarly renowned as a great surf destination for beginners and veterans alike.
A few kilometres offshore lies another must-visit: the Berlengas, an archipelago of small islands latterly turned into a nature reserve, with some impressive historic ruins and – you guessed it – more dreamy beaches.
Insider Tips:
- Don’t miss Cabo Carvoeiro, a dramatic, wave-wracked headland famous for its ancient rock formations.
- Noah’s restaurant in nearby Santa Cruz, a modern institution and surfer hangout.
- Noah’s Skate Bowl, also in Santa Cruz, for skateboarding lessons or just to watch the daredevils doing their thing.
3. Ericeira
The unofficial “capital” of the stretch of surfing mecca that runs south from Peniche, Ericeira is a touch more developed and commercialised than some of the other places on our list – though still small-scale, super friendly and easy to get around.
Families will enjoy the cute coffee shops and restaurants that have sprung up to appeal to a younger, outdoorsy crowd: skateboarding, climbing, horse-riding and bouldering are almost as popular here as surfing. And there are an abundance of surf schools and camps for kids, in case your littles are up for learning a new skill…
Insider Tips:
- Tapada da Mafra, an inland hunting reserve turned nature park – see deer, boar and birds of prey as you follow the well-maintained hiking trails or ride the miniature train.
- Balagan, for delicious Middle Eastern specialties on an oceanfront roof terrace.
- Onda, a restaurant from acclaimed chef Nuno Matos, for wild-caught fish and eye-pleasing interiors.
- Stay at The You & The Sea Residence for seafront views and hotel-style extras.
4. Sintra
Nestled amid lush green hills, Sintra is steeped in romance. It’s known for dramatic landscapes and fairytale architecture – historically, Portugal’s nobility liked to decamp to Sintra for a bit of breathing space, which led to the building of iconic landmarks like the colorful Pena Palace.
Much of the region is a national park, ensuring a tranquil feel, while the hills ensure a slightly cooler climate than Lisbon (which is just 40 minutes’ drive down the road). We love the rugged, windswept beaches and the winding trails that criss-cross its forested uplands – many of which offer breathtaking views over the Atlantic.
Insider Tips:
- Colares and Azenhas Do Mar, two picturesque coastal towns that are great starting points for sunlit hikes. Check out the seawater pool at Azenhas do Mar.
- Moinho Dom Quixote, one of the prettiest restaurants in Portugal, whose flowered gardens offer fabulous views over the surrounding hills.
- Auake, a newly opened pottery studio that offers classes for adults and kids alike.
- Stay at The Caminho do Moinho Residence for architectural bliss.
5. Cascais & Estoril
Cascais and Estoril are cosmopolitan coastal towns known for their luxurious villas and popular beaches.
Cascais was once a humble fishing village but now hosts visitors looking to soak up its stunning sunsets and lively cultural scene. Estoril, with its imposing casino and historic motor racing circuit, offers a further taste of the high life, nicely offset by leafy parks and great dining options.
Insider Tips:
- Museu Paula Rego, Cascais – a beautifully designed contemporary museum showcasing the work of the lauded Portuguese artist, who died in 2022.
- Quinta do Pisao, a beautiful farm estate in the hills outside Cascais and a great place for a nature walk. (Kids can even ride donkeys!)
- Lusophonica, Cascais – a hip local coffee shop and radio station broadcasting the best in Portuguese-language music.
- Stay at The Rua Do Pinhal Residence for super luxe interiors
6. Arrabida
The Sierra da Arrábida is a range of hills in Setubal, the region just south of Lisbon’s Rio Tejo. Take the Ponte 25 de Abril over the water, speed south on (mostly) uncluttered highways, and within an hour you’ll be passing through forests teeming with boar and deer, as you close in on the Arrábida coast.
A handful of jaw-dropping beaches confined to small coves at the foot of the sierra’s southern slopes, parking here can be tough – in fact, in peak season you’ll have to find a spot at either end of the strip and catch a bus to the beaches themselves, as the road is closed from early June to mid-September, to prevent congestion. The effort is worth it, though: the Arrábida beaches boast calmer, clearer waters and more verdant surroundings than much of Portugal’s Atlantic coastline. Grab an ice cream and watch the little fishing boats bobbing in the blue, or enjoy a long lunch at one of the quayside restaurants.
Insider Tips:
- O Farol, a traditional Portuguese restaurant partly perched on piles over the water at the stunning Portinho do Arrábida.
- Friends of a Farmer, an organic farm and slow living collective in Meco, a short drive west from the main Arrábida strand. Look out for family-friendly workshops in everything from regenerative agriculture to flower arranging.
- Lagoa de Albufeira, a large seawater lagoon just north of the sierra, surrounded by forested walking trails and camping spots.
- Stay at The Quinta da Fininha Residence
7. Comporta
Comporta has come a long way in the last decade. What was once a huge private estate, closed to most development, has been gradually opening up to outsiders since the previous owners went bankrupt during the 2008 economic crisis. But the local authorities have been careful to preserve the region’s picturesque charm: thoughtful development is the order of the day, and simple elegance remains Comporta’s defining attribute.
Luxury villas are strewn discreetly across a gorgeous landscape of sand and stone pines, while the village itself hosts several good restaurants and cute boutiques. It may not be as sleepily Portuguese as it was when Jane Birkin summered here, in the 1970s – but it’s not far off.
Insider Tips:
- Sublime Beach Club, where the well-heeled go for a casually luxurious day at Praia do Carvalhal.
- The ‘secret beach’ at Brejos da Carregueira de Baixo – access is via the rice paddies.
- JNcQuoi, 2024’s most talked-about opening, a new restaurant and beach club from the team behind a bevy of highly regarded Lisbon eateries.
- Stay at The Rua dos Casas de Colmo Residence
8. Melides
Melides is a quiet gem, an unpretentious seaside village whose untouched natural beauty has gained the stamp of approval from the global jetset – Christian Louboutin and Philippe Starck are among those who own properties here.
Surrounded by low hills and cork-oak forests, looking out over a long, unspoiled beach (it’s at the southerly end of the same 30km-long strip as Comporta), Melides is an ideal spot for those looking to connect with nature and enjoy leisurely days by the sea. It’s also great for those who find Comporta’s new amenities and popularity a little too “bouji” for their taste.
Insider Tips:
- Galé-Fontainhas, perhaps Portugal’s most beautiful beach, set just north of Melides and backed by incredible cliffs of red rock.
- Check out the uber-chic interiors at Vermelho Melides, the boutique hotel opened by footwear designer Christian Louboutin.
- Horseriding on the beach with local tour provider Passeios de Cavalo.
- Stay at The Casa Serena Residence
Visiting the Atlantic Coast
Navigating Portugal’s Atlantic Coast is a breeze, thanks to well-maintained roads and (in some parts, at least) easy access to public transportation.
- Families are advised to rent a car to enjoy the flexibility of exploring at their own pace. Road trips along the coast offer scenic drives and the freedom to stop at hidden coves, quaint villages, and historic sites.
- Key routes include the drive from Cascais through Sintra to Ericeira, which showcases the diversity of the landscape from coastal vistas to forest-covered hills.
- Another recommended route is the drive south from Lisbon to Comporta and Melides, where the landscape transitions from bustling city life to deserted, sandy stretches, via the pretty riverside town of Alcacer do Sal.
- Public transport options such as trains and buses also serve the region, connecting major towns and cities along the coast. The train line from Lisbon to Cascais is particularly convenient for families, offering a direct route to the heart of the Estoril coastline with stunning sea views along the way.
- For those looking to explore Sintra, buses and trains from Lisbon make regular trips to the town, its key palaces and gardens.
Booking Your Portugal Family Vacation
Hopefully, reading this guide has shown you that Portugal’s Atlantic Coast is a great destination for a family trip. From the surf havens of Nazaré and Ericeira to the tranquil retreats of Comporta and Melides, nature is the star of the show and ‘relaxed’ is the prevailing vibe. Time to slow down and soak it all in.
To start planning your family’s adventure, take a look at all our family-friendly rentals around the Atlantic Coast that provide the perfect base for exploring everything the coastline has to offer.
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/atlantic-coast/the-quinta-da-fininha-residence
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/sintra/the-penedo-residence
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/comporta/the-rua-direita-carvalhal-residence
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/comporta/the-carvalhal-beach-residence
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/comporta/the-avenida-lux-residence
