Andrea Fellman & Teja Rau are founders of The Barcelona Edit, a lifestyle publication and portal through which international women living and working in Barcelona can discover their community. Here’s a local guide to Barcelona with kids…
Sun-kissed and Mediterranean to its core, lovely Barcelona has unforgettable experiences for everyone from couples, to families, to solo travelers. Barcelona is about savoring the moment, whether it’s casually sipping cava at a plaza cafe while the kids run around or strolling down the street eating a gelato and appreciating the architectural details on even the most mundane of residential buildings. ‘Tranquila’ is the mood, so long as you mind your manners and keep it chill.
A Local’s Guide to Neighborhoods in Barcelona
Eixample
The Eixample neighborhood is a terrific location for any type of traveler because it’s conveniently close to the old quarter (El Gotico and El Born), tourist spots like Plaza Catalunya and Las Ramblas, and has many public transportation options, from bus to metro to Rodalies trains. Families and groups won’t lack options when it comes to restaurants and cafes that meet various dietary needs. Eixample maintains a residential feel, with pharmacies, groceries, and other everyday amenities easily available, unlike in more touristic or older sections of the city. Plus, architecture aficionados (and families pushing strollers down the wide sidewalks) will appreciate the many buildings in Eixample that have ornate balconies and beautiful exterior facades.
Sant Gervasi
The sleepy and residential neighborhood of Sant Gervasi offers a quiet retreat from the tourist crowds and hustle of downtown Barcelona. Residents shop at the Mercat de Galvany, a large 19th century market filled with food vendors and a couple of cafes. Turo Parc, the biggest greenspace in the neighborhood, provides a shady respite from summer heat. The park includes a small playground, ping-pong tables, walking paths, a lily pond, and, best of all, a hidden outdoor cafe in the center. Dogs are prohibited.
Gracia
The bohemian neighborhood of Gracia is tucked away above A/Diagonal and the tourist areas downtown, but that doesn’t mean it’s sleepy. Far from it, families will find the large plazas to be perfect for letting young children run around while they sip a drink at one of the many cafes surrounding each plaza. Each plaza has its own vibe, with some attracting groups of younger people and others being more family-oriented. The streets and sidewalks are small, which means less traffic, but more pedestrian noise. Groups frequently spill outside of bars and restaurants on cool summer nights. Convenient public transportation options, including bus, metro, and FGC, means it’s easy to get to the historic districts downtown.
Poble Nou
Often described as Barcelona’s mini-Silicon Valley, Poble Nou is a hub for start-ups and coworking spaces and mecca for some of the biggest graffiti artists in the city. This formerly industrial area is now being reimagined through a huge revitalization effort. Close proximity to Bogatell, Nova Icaria, and Mar Bella beaches makes this a popular neighborhood, but without all of the tourist traffic, vendors, and noise of Barceloneta.
Poble Sec
Sitting at the foothills of Montjuic castle, Poble Sec and it’s narrow streets and residential rowhomes is reminiscent of the Gracia neighborhood, but without the plazas. The neighborhood more than makes up for it though with a thriving tapas and theatre scene. Families will appreciate being able to walk down a pedestrian-friendly street “tapa hopping” from one restaurant to the next. It’s also easy to access the Montjuic castle and gardens via the funicular to the top of the mountain. Poble Sec also has Les Tres Xemeneies, a legal graffiti park where you can find artists and art classes putting up new works practically every day of the week. The park is a public space, so you can try your hand at spraying some graffiti also!
Things to do in Barcelona
1. March: The 62nd International Vintage Car Rally
What: Europe’s oldest and one of the most popular vintage car rallies. The final stop in the sunny, historic beach town of Sitges, only a short train ride outside of Barcelona, will have the historic cars and motorcycles lined up by the side of the Mediterranean. Costumes, music, and, of course, food, all make for a festive day.
Where: Sitges, a seaside village located just south of Barcelona
Good to know: Make advance plans and reservations for meals because Sitges is a small town and restaurants and cafes will be busy.
2. April: La Diada de Sant Jordi
What: Barcelona celebrates la Diada de Sant Jordi or St. George’s Day, who is the patron saint of Catalunya. Families, friends, and couples exchange books and roses.
Where: Expect major streets, like A/Diagonal and Passeig de Gracia to be filled with booksellers’ stalls and flower vendors, plus a parade near the old city center of Placa Jaume with traditional gegants (giant papier mache characters).
Good to know: Traditionally, boys gave girls a rose, in return for a book from the girl, but now both books and roses are gifted without regard to gender.
What: As part of the International Museum Day, many local museums, including CosmoCaixa, Center for Contemporary Culture of Barcelona (CCCB), Museum of Contemporary Art of Barcelona (MACBA), and Picasso Museum, will offer free entry from 7:00pm to 1:00am. Workshops, lectures, and other events will be held all day long.
Where: Upwards of 80 museums throughout Barcelona and surrounding area. Check the Ajuntament website for program agenda and specific locations.
Good to know: The bigger museums, especially Picasso and MACBA, will be crowded, with lines to enter. (Check out local tours with skip-the-line tickets if there’s somewhere you don’t want to miss!) The CosmoCaixa museum is especially great for families because of its many exhibits designed for children.
What: The city’s biggest summer beach party is the Festa de Sant Joan. Barcelona lights up in the days leading up to the Festival of St. John the Baptist. Fireworks vendors set up stalls around the city and you can hear explosions from fireworks being set off around the city in the week leading up to the festival, with the culmination being the night of June 23, when there typically is a pyrotechnic show at Barceloneta beach.
Where: Citywide wherever residents set off fireworks, but especially in plazas and parks. Barceloneta Beach for the final show on the evening of June 23.
Good to know: There are few restrictions on when and where fireworks can be set off, so there will be loud and unexpected explosions. This is also the week when local schools close for the summer and there will be many children walking around the streets.
5. August: Festa Major de Gràcia
What: Every neighborhood in Barcelona has its own festa or neighborhood festival, but the Festa de Gracia tops the bill as the must-see-to-believe street party. Streets and plazas in the bohemian Gracia neighborhood are decorated by teams of local residents. Each location has a theme, like Harry Potter or children’s fairytales and decorations are made of recycled items. Some streets have bands playing music and food and drinks are sold throughout the festival. Everything has a homemade flair and the vibe is friendly, family-oriented, and relaxed.
Where: Designated streets and plazas in the Gracia neighborhood.
Good to Know: The more popular streets will have long lines to enter and see the displays. Try to go during off-hours and download the festa app online to see the map and event schedule.
Tips for Traveling to Barcelona
1. Barcelona is not an early riser. Things open much later here, so let the kids sleep in! You have to adjust your schedule a bit while in Barcelona, this is a late night city, even for families and kids. Most stores and grocers open at 9:00am, lunch starts at 1:30 or 2:00 and dinner only at 8:00pm. It is normal and acceptable for children to be out with their parents at restaurants well into the night.
2. The city closes on Sundays. Nothing, except cafes and restaurants, is open on Sundays because they are meant to be as they should be, lazy! Families spend their Sundays at the beach, enjoying long lunches with family and friends, and walking or playing at the park. This is a day of rest, so you should definitely follow suit. Retail stores and even most grocery stores are closed, with the exception of tourist shops and some boutiques in the city center. Small convenience stores will be open for basic essentials and a few pharmacies as well.
3. Restaurant 411: Service is a bit slower, brunch places fill up fast and most don’t take reservations, so the popular places will have a line. It is best to make reservations for dinner. Tipping is not required or expected, however leaving a few euros is fine or perhaps 10% at a nice restaurant that you really loved or had a great meal or service was exceptional.
4. Parks & Play Spaces: Barcelona does not have as many parks and green spaces, because we have the beach! Also, playgrounds are not as impressive, some have two swings and one slide and that’s about it. Park Ciutadella is the largest and best that is centrally located and connects to the Zoo which is great for families. Montjuic is not as convenient and can be a bit intense for little ones. Turo Park is a locals favorite spot, off the tourist track, and has a small cafe.
A Local’s Guide to Visiting Barcelona
Getting to the City Center: Barcelona is only about a 30 minute cab ride from the airport, and it will cost you approximately 30-40 euros, depending on where you are staying. Expect to be up-charged for airport or Sants train station pick up and drop off, plus a baggage fee. One of the most convenient and cheapest ways to get to and from the airport is on the blue AeroBus. They run every five minutes and drop off right in the center at Plaza Catalunya. If you are staying in the Eixample neighborhood or Gothic Quarter, it is a savvy option.
Strollers: Navigating a stroller in the small city streets is not a problem. However in the summertime when the city is packed with tourists, it can be a bit difficult in the narrow streets of the Gothic Quarter, El Born, and Gracia. Metro stations also will be difficult to access because of the many stairs. While elevators are available, expect to wait or encounter service issues. If you use a stroller, please also be mindful of your personal belongings that you may place on this stroller, they could easily be stolen.
Public Transportation: The public transportation is very easy to use and efficient. The bus, tram, and metro are also clean, relatively safe and not as hectic as other large European cities. You can purchase the T-Casual Metro card that works for both the metro and the bus system. The T-Casual gives one person ten rides. Tickets may be purchased at tram stops, train stations, and the many Tabacs stores around town. The T-Casual is integrated across all modes of public transportation within the city. Taxis are not difficult to flag down, unless it is raining. There are also dedicated taxi areas on major streets and intersections throughout Barcelona. A green light on top of the taxi means it is available. You do not need to tip the taxi drivers, but it is appreciated.
Meal Times: Meal times in Barcelona are later than most other cities. Lunchtime typically begins at 1:30 or 2:00pm and dinner begins at 8:00pm, with most people arriving closer to 9:30pm. Many restaurants do not open until 8:00pm, with a few exceptions opening at 7:00pm. Restaurants and cafes in more touristy parts of the city offer “all day kitchens” meaning hot meals are available throughout the restaurant’s open hours.
3-Day Kid-Friendly Barcelona Itinerary
Discover the best of the city with a pre-planned itinerary, to make sure you don’t miss the sights that kids will love. Check out the 3-day Barcelona Tour on Content Travel.
Booking Your Family-Friendly Stay in Barcelona
Ready to book your Barcelona stay? Explore all our family-friendly vacation rentals in Barcelona, as well as kid-friendly hotels in the city.
The biggest thing you need to know about Barcelona is the petty theft is rampant. This is not just out on the street or in the metro, but also at restaurants and stores. Never keep your phone on the table, even if you are sitting directly in front of it. Obviously, do not put your phone in your back pocket and keep purses and bags zipped and at your side. If you are traveling with teenagers, make sure they know this! Be especially careful walking around with your phone in your hands as thieves have been known to grab them and run, especially at metro and tram stations. Be especially wary on soccer game days.
Some shops do close during the day from about 2:00 – 5:00, but this is not as common as other parts of Spain and certainly not in the touristic areas, as they are open all day.
Some businesses, including cafes and restaurants, will close for two weeks in August or the entire month. The entire country seems to be on holiday in August, so don’t be surprised to see the signs “Tancat per Vacaciones” hanging on the doors and windows of shops. Although, plenty are open taking full advantage of this busy season. Always call ahead in August to confirm whether a business is open.
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/gracia/the-via-augusta-residences
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/eixample/the-carrer-de-pau-claris-residence
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/barcelona/the-carrer-de-lepant-residence
- https://www.kidandcoe.com/destinations/eixample/the-carrer-de-provenca-residence
